By Justin Risley
“One of NS/S’s greatest contributions was the preservation and subsequent popularity of the Sonoran White Wheat. This wheat, which had become obscure and almost disappeared, was nearly destroyed in 1996 during an outbreak of a wheat fungus called Karnal Bunt. The USDA had wanted to confiscate and destroy all of the NS/S wheat varieties and Executive Director, Angelo Joaquin Jr., and other staff convinced the USDA to not destroy these wheat seeds. Today, thanks to NS/S’s efforts of preservation, and literal physical protection, the Sonoran White Wheat can be consumed in a variety of ways, including in breads, bagels, crackers, wheatberries, flour and beer across Southern Arizona.”
-Kevin Dahl, Tucson Ward 3 Council Member, Former NS/S Executive Director & Board Member
Pictured right, Seedhead News No. 53, published in 1996
According to the Heritage Grain Trust, almost all of the grain used today for baking, brewing and distilling are from a few modern hybrid varieties. These hybrid varieties are susceptible to drought, and rely on significant inputs, including fertilizers, herbicides, and pesticides.
In 2012, a collaboration between bakers, farmers and NS/S was formed to revive the use of White Sonora wheat as an option for baked goods. The project incentivized local farmers to try this drought tolerant, heritage grain and for bakers to use it. NS/S had the seeds and shared them with local farmers who then shared the grains with bakers, including Don Guerra, owner of Barrio Bread.
Last year, Don was given the prestigious James Beard award for outstanding baker for his use of heritage grains, including the white Sonora wheat. The popularity of Barrio Bread and White Sonora Wheat would not have been possible without the conservation and stewardship of these heirloom seeds and without partnerships between seed savers, farmers, bakers and brewers.
“I started working with NS/S in 2011 on the Sustainable Cultural Research Education Grant from the USDA, an effort to revitalize the grain economy and get that wheat back in production and growing. And so I was kind of recruited as a test baker. My role would be to make something with the seed. I was given the seed, milled it into a flour, and made bread with it.”
Don said how at first, the soft, white wheat may not seem ideal for bread making, but it was the first wheat of the Americas, brought by Father Kino. “So to me, that’s special. We had lost touch with the seed and lost touch with the bread that was being made with it, and the foods being made with it, so now we had this opportunity to strengthen the foodshed, and make sure this wheat is around into the future.”
Those first loaves had a strong aroma of flour that had been absent from most breads today. He describes them as, “unlike anything I had experienced, and I knew right then that this was an opportunity for agricultural, economic, and gastronomic stimulation.”
“None of this would have been possible without the acknowledgment of seeds and where food comes from.” - Don Guerra, pictured left
Not soon after, Don and NS/S got together to host a gathering with local farmers. They asked if any farmers out there were interested in farming the grain. “Thankfully, some people raised their hands and said, ‘You know what? Sure, let’s give this a shot.’”
Don also credits a majority of the impact for this whole grain revitalization to the home bakers and heritage food enthusiasts of the Tucson community, which contributed to Tucson’s City of Gastronomy designation. “It really wasn’t until 2015 when Tucson was actually awarded the City of Gastronomy that people started to pay attention.”
“Today, we’ve been able to develop this sustainable bread culture here in Tucson, based on what grows here, which was unheard of 20 years ago, 30 years ago, 40 years ago since it was all wiped out after 1950 with the Green Revolution. This is really the efforts of the seed saving community.”
In the near future, Don plans to host a grain gathering in Tucson, but also statewide. The gathering would acknowledge Arizona’s role in revitalizing the grain economy. It would be an opportunity to showcase this model to the rest of the world.
“Tucson is a special place for this. People want to see good in the community. It’s really made possible by places like Native Seeds/SEARCH. None of this would have been possible without the acknowledgment of seeds and where food comes from. We have to talk about it more and more to not let this slip away.”
This piece is republished from the Seedheads News No. 129. You can read the full Seedhead News edition here>>